Gone fishing at a homely Wisconsin grill

Editor’s Note: Our columnist is not a trained or paid professional, nor does he get complimentary meals from the restaurants visited. He and his party arrive unannounced and do not reveal that they will be doing a review. Comments or questions may be sent to Sam Geati, greengeezer9@comcast.net

On a recent fall Sunday evening, neighbors Bob and Roberta Langham invited Judy and me to join them for dinner at Fitzgerald’s Restaurant & Gift Shop in Genoa City, WI. They had high praises for their fish broil set in a unique octagon-shaped home. Mike and Emma Burns also joined us for the 45-minute trip to the historic restaurant.

On the way, we passed through Woodstock and then tiny Hebron, the home of the 1952 Illinois state boys basketball champions. If you have ever driven through this hamlet, perhaps you’ve noticed the basketball backboards attached to poles on its main street. Later, we reached the town of Richmond, which, known as a hot spot for antiques and candy shops, could make for an interesting shopping experience, as it is just minutes from Genoa City.

Arriving at Fitzgerald’s, you could not help but be impressed by the stately home that has housed the family restaurant for over 30 years. Inside, we discovered a very homey atmosphere including a bar and two levels for dining. There is also a small antique shop in one of the many rooms. The most surprising aspect of Fitzgerald’s is the fact there is no kitchen! The food (North Atlantic cod, chicken, and ribs) is cooked in the backyard in large kettles over wood fires.

Orders are taken at the bar along with drink orders. There is open seating, and, being Sunday, it was not crowded. Outside we got a first-hand report from the young men who were stirring the large kettles. They explained that the cooking process begins by boiling fresh potatoes and whole onions, which, by the way, were delicious. Later, the cod (no bones or skin) is added while wood is added to the fire. The ribs and chicken are grilled alongside the kettles.

The brief menu includes fish boil dinner ($14), chicken dinner ($14), fish & chicken ($15), fish, chicken & ribs ($18). Drinks and gratuities are not included. Dinners are all you can eat, no sharing. In addition to the fish, potatoes, and onions, coleslaw and freshly baked rye bread come with the dinners. Dessert is included; however, it was an extremely small portion of apple strudel. Complimentary coffee is available.

If you are looking for a gourmet meal, Fitzgerald’s is not the place to go. However, the neighbors all enjoyed the uniqueness of the Fitzgerald experience and thought the portion of fish was substantial. I ordered the three-way combination in order to give readers an assessment of the other menu items. Neither the ribs nor the chicken were special. However, the boiled cod served with drawn butter was the highlight of the meal.

Here’s how we rated our dining experience at Fitzgerald’s:

Ratings (5 symbols being the highest):

Quality of food – ***
Value – ***
Service – ****
Ambiance – *****

Comments: While the drive wasn’t bad, because it was a beautiful fall day and we enjoyed each other’s company, we agreed that it was fine for a one-time experience. Coupled with the very warm ambience and casual atmosphere of the Fitzgerald home, we enjoyed a pleasant dining experience. I was frustrated by the miniature dessert, so I persuaded our driver to stop at Culver’s for root beer floats and pumpkin pecan custard cones. It was a nice finish to our evening out.

Fitzgerald’s Genoa Junction Restaurant and Gift Shop. 727 Main St. (Hwy B), Genoa, City, WI. Located in Genoa City’s Historic Octagon House. Two miles NW of Richmond, IL. 262-279-5200. Fitzgerald’s is open year round from 5 – 9 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday, and 3 -8 p.m. on Sunday. Call for fall and winter hours.

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