Hungry for Starved Rock

As the evening sun begins to set over the Illinois River in the fall of 2013, we relax with a glass of wine on the veranda overlooking the valley. The lengthening shadows slowly smother the fall beauty of the forest below only to be replaced by a full moon in the crisp, clear October sky. Millions of people visit Chicago each year to marvel at the granite and glass “canyons and valleys” the city’s skyline presents. Few, if any, know that there are real canyons, cliffs, and waterfalls within a short distance from the city at Starved Rock State Park outside Utica. Approximately 2 hours from the city, you are immersed in the natural beauty the park has to offer. Located on the south shore of the Illinois River, Starved Rock State Park, the most visited park in the state, has 18 canyons, many with accompanying waterfalls. There are also 13 miles of marked trails that branch through the varied landscape taking you from one canyon to another via wooded or river bank trails. Starved Rock is named after a major 157 foot sandstone precipice overlooking the river where a local Indian tribe made a last stand against a marauding rival group and eventually starving from the siege, thus the namesake. The 450 million year old sandstone bluffs were created by the receding ice age flows carving major canyons such as St. Louis, the most visited, Wildcat, and French. Created in 1911, the lodge, cabins, and trails were added in the 1930’s with resources from the Civilian Conservation Corp. Several of the original barracks that housed the workers are still standing along the trails. The main lodge, complete with a central, double-sided fireplace, massive timbers, restaurant, and deck area offers an enjoyable respite after a day of hiking and sightseeing. The lodge offers standard rooms and suites for overnight lodging. More rustic cabins are also available, some with their own fireplaces. For those that want to “rough it,” there are also campsites. Dining is available both inside at the main restaurant as well at the outside patio overlooking the cliffs and river valley.

Michael and Eileen Giltner at Starved Rock State Park. (Photo provided)

As our day of hiking was ending, deer and squirrels were out and about all along the trails. During our October visit, a local German “oom-pah” band was playing on the outdoor patio where we enjoyed beer and wine. Later we ate a surprisingly well prepared meal in the restaurant – duck breast with sun dried tomatoes and bowtie pasta. Numerous activities are schedule throughout the year. We enjoyed a wood crafting show, all hand carved, and a chain saw carving exhibition.

The next day we started early and accidentally met up with Linda and her husband, also out for a morning hike. She turned out to be a local park guide and has led hiking tours throughout the park for over 10 years. They took us to one of the least visited, but spectacular canyons in the park, Aurora Canyon.

Starved Rock also offers tent camping for the more adventurous. A trolley tour offers wine tasting at several locations in Utica, a very active Irish bar and a nationally recommended Cajun restaurant. Open year round, winter activities at Starved Rock include ice climbing on the frozen falls and tracking bald eagle wintering over in the park. Most of the sites are not handicap accessible. Trails vary from gentle to demanding with many stairs in several locations. The more demanding also have benches so you can catch that “second” breath. Even though we have visited several times, we always find something new with each visit.

By Michael Giltner

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