Exiting the Smoky Mountain National Park from Gatlinburg, TN, we began navigating the downhill, mountainous, switchback roads leading to Asheville, NC.
The world immediately changed once we hit the Interstate. No more tubing, zip lining, or Hillbilly buffets, but a somewhat more sophisticated environment. Oh, where to stay, where to stay? Fortunately the Bed and Breakfast Association of Asheville was a great help, ashevillebba.com/. With approximately 40 B&Bs in the area, their site made it easy for us to select, compare, find availability and contact the B&B to make reservations. They also linked us to a site that outlined various events and activities in the area during our visit. Believe we would have had to extend our visit for another week to take in everything.
Talk about a room with a view! (Photos provided)
Our selection: the Beaufort House Inn Bed and Breakfast in Asheville; an elegant 120-year-old Queen Ann style home. Completed the same year as the Biltmore, it still retains many of its original appointments including the eight coal-burning fireplaces; one is even three-sided. All have the original, brightly colored, tile faces. We were met at the front door by our Host, Christina Muth, given a tour of the house and grounds and our room. The grounds are huge and include a two-person wooden swing hanging from an equally large oak tree. Besides the main house, there are guest cottages behind the house. The 12-place dining room table is over 100 years old and was built for the original owners. Many other furnishings are also original as is the flooring in the room occupied by Charlton Heston. He smoked and cigarette burns in the wood floor still note his stay. Wine and snacks were present every afternoon so all the guest could recant their day, offer suggestions for the evening, and destinations for the next day.
Our plans changed constantly based upon their suggestions. Each morning started with coffee or tea, followed by an exquisite breakfast and pleasant conversation regarding the past evening’s adventures and everyone’s plans for the day. Great food, great guests, great hosts; what more could you ask for?
Asheville is best known for the Biltmore Estate. In 1889, George Vanderbilt initiated construction of the 250 room French Renaissance chateau as a summer residence; an undertaking that took over 6 years to complete. With the surrounding sculptured grounds, it is the largest private residence constructed in the United States. Pace yourself. While most try to see the entire site in one day, you can’t, and we recommend two. First, there is the house itself, then specialty tours (optional), the gardens, the winery, restaurants, and more, much more. Check the website, www.biltmore.com. If you want to experience it even more, stay in the Biltmore Inn or Cottages on the estate. Bring your wallet!
Want to save some cash and be a little more relaxed? A number of B&B’s offer discounted daily tickets and they are good for two days of visits, not just one. FYI – most of the first and second floors are handicap accessible at Biltmore as is the winery. Also, be aware that there is NO air conditioning in the house. We were lucky to have a cool mountain breeze the day we visited and all the windows were open to bring down the heat generated by all the overcrowding of visitors. Be sure and get the audio tour headset so you can marvel along with the narrator at the grandeur of the home, its undertaking, and management.
The Biltmore Estate.
If you are a gardener, you’ll love theirs. We were joined by a couple that had managed a nursery for many years and they were surprised at the number of plants they could not recognize. Most everything was in bloom so the colors were amazing.
Besides Biltmore, why has Asheville flourished? Take the trolley tour with on/off privileges and you’ll get the full story. Matt Wilson, the owner gave us an overview prior to our departure and the trolley drivers provide more detailed information as you traverse the landscape. Basically, it was the climate and the air that drew people to the area. Initially a haven for people suffering from TB, it eventually grew to add people with physiological disorders. Most were wealthier people and that drew in the associated craftsmen.
One of the main stops on the trolley tour is the Grove Park Inn. It sits high on a hill overlooking Asheville, giving you spectacular views. Once inside, you find out about the hidden elevators built into the fireplace, the local “ghost”, and the list of dignitaries and Presidents who have stayed there. Another is the River Arts District with various forms of art from over 180 artists: paintings, fiber, jewelry, clay, paper, sculpture and more.
The best way to describe Asheville is quirky and somewhat strange. Others have suggested “granola” and “Trustafarian,” described as a trust fund kid that acts like a Rastafarian with dreadlocks, playing music on the street, just hanging out, but with his BMW parked around the corner. Where else would you find a multifaceted building with a Pilate’s studio, acupuncture clinic, jazz nightclub, bakery, and real estate office combined? The city’s restaurants, and there are plenty to meet anyone’s taste buds, focus a lot on the “farm to market” aspects of food; some organic, but most locally grown.
We were also surprised by the Amazing Pub Cycle. Basically, it’s a trolley propelled by the patrons. Ten people pedal while being served beer and other drinks. Not sure it would work in Chicago what with all the traffic. It only travels as fast as the people pedal and even then is limited to 5mph. Too many drinks and it’s not going anywhere. Not sure this constitutes drinking and driving as a separate and sober driver manages the trolley.
Asheville is also full of microbreweries with many new sites, some with music, around every corner. We also stumbled into the Mountain Crafts fair. Higher-end, juried craftworks including sculpture, wood, glass, and woven goods were displayed. We next stopped at the pinball museum, which included some classic arcade games and nearby, we found two functioning Five and Dime stores, as well as a yarn shop with knitting and crochet classes. Last, but certainly not least, was the incomparable Chocolate Lounge in the main square. The aroma of freshly made chocolate delights will draw you in and you may never want to leave. As you can guess, Asheville proved to be a treasure trove of old, new, strange and nostalgic; definitely a city where you need more than three days to fully enjoy.
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