The northern area of California offers a variety of vacation destinations. The wine country of Napa, Sonoma, and Russian River, and the coastal areas along Hwy 1 mirror those of central California south of San Francisco. Thereâs also the forests of mighty Redwoods and the marketing that surrounds it. We’ve seen gondolas in the clouds, drive-thru trees (yes, most mid-size cars will fit), the sci-fi bit with Bigfoot, and alien abductions. Thereâs also Paul Bunyan and Babe.
(Photos provided)
But in all circumstances youâre seeing natureâs extreme beauty in its many facets: vineyards dotting the valleys and mountain sides with terraced fields, sea ports with their surrounding rocky cliffs, clam beaches, surfers challenging the Pacific waves, seals molting on the sandy beach, and sea otters in the bay.
Why did we end up in Eureka? Number one, we have relatives there, and number two, it was a starting point from which we attacked Hwy 1 south back to San Francisco. Eureka, on the shores of Humboldt Bay, provides a protected harbor that hosts fishing fleets and their shipping industry. Timber, especially Redwood, prevailed as the standard with fisherman bringing in a vast menagerie of seafood: salmon, crabs, squid and almost anything else you could catch.Â
Waking to a rainy morning, we enjoyed another wonderful breakfast at the Cornelius Daly Inn as the sun gradually melted away the rain clouds. Heading north to Trinidad, the rocky coastline was interspersed with sections open enough for surfing and we were able to enjoy spectacular views of the Pacific coastline. The cold Humboldt Current had everyone in wetsuits. As the sunset, we hurried to meet friends at the Sea Grill for dinner. As you might guess, there are a lot of fresh seafood offerings from a fishing port town. We topped everything off at the Speakeasy, a local watering hole with a great R&B band. The leader had been practicing for 40 years and had finally got it right: a good crowd, good music, and a lot of fun!
The Lost Coast of California beckoned the following day, so we took the road less traveled and quickly found out why. This area is virtually undeveloped with no major highways; still somewhat wild and beautiful. We were warned but persevered. After seemingly hundreds of multiple switchbacks at a maximum speed of 25-30 mph, we traversed many different road surfaces. Sometimes on one-lane roads, sometimes gravel, sometimes washboard, but always with steep uphill or downhill 180-degree turns, S-curve upon S upon S-curve. After hours of driving through the mountainous territory, we finally reached the coast and the views were spectacular. Definitely not a drive for the faint of heart.
Our next stop was Fort Bragg – a small coastal town south of Eureka on Highway 1. As we exited onto Hwy 1, the signs beckoned us to visit the Tree House and the drive-thru-tree. The tree house is a hollowed out Redwood log that has been turned into a home. Yes, someone had actually lived in it at one time. We decided to see the drive-thru tree and managed to squeeze our car through. At 350 feet tall and 2400 years old, we were glad we did. Little did we know that this portion of Hwy 1 was much like the road to the Lost Coast except better paved! We knew we were in trouble as soon as we saw a road sign embossed with a triple S curve labeled â âNext 21 milesâ! Ouch! Once we completed that section, it was the seacoast and everything we had originally made the trip for – the view: ocean seascapes, and rocky formations with 500-1,000 foot drop-offs. Definitely, the road less traveled.
Some have asked why we stopped in Fort Bragg versus continuing on to Mendocino. Well, after checking with a few travel sites we determined that prices were significantly less in Ft. Bragg versus the trendy stay in Mendocino. We did plan on visiting but after the dayâs drive wanted a little R&R. The spacious room at the Seabird Lodge, think typical resort motel, was cross ventilated with a deck, so we were able to enjoy a cool breeze and a glass of wine as the sun set just beyond the beach. Because all the B&Bs we visited were a minimum of 100 years old, air conditioning was not available, nor was the Seabird. Be sure to pick months when the air is cool, the breeze is present and the rooms offer cross ventilation or has a room fan. All of our rooms cooled off beautifully so we were comfortable.
Itâs Dog Country. A number of hotels, B&Bs, and restaurants allow patrons to bring their pets with them. Some allow them to stay in their rooms, but generally in cages if left alone. I am allergic so had concerns, especially at the Seabird. They assured me that certain rooms were maintained as pet free and when they washed, they washed not only the bedding and towels, but the bed spread also. Few hotels are that conscientious! I was sold immediately.
Twenty minutes away the following morning, was Mendocino, a touristy village at the top of Hwy 128 and on the beach. We did some window-shopping and decided to have lunch at a small hole-in-the-wall place down one flight of stairs, and up two others that turned out to be wonderful. We enjoyed curried chicken salad sandwiches with mango chutney and mulligatawny soup.
We had been initially warned that the road from the Lost Coast might prove as tortuous as the one leading in, but this proved untrue. While just as many twists and turns, the road was wide and well paved. I guess more tourists go to Mendocino and donât venture further north. Our travel was interrupted once we entered the Redwood forest, which it intersected. It turns out there was a marathon event in progress and we had to wait until a convoy could take us through. Since it was a beautiful day and we werenât in a hurry, no problem.
Our last stop: The Gables B&B in Santa Rosa (www.thegablesinn.com). An elegantly restored 1887 Victorian on 31/2 acres just outside of town, it features 12-foot ceilings, luxurious beds, and private bathrooms with claw-foot tubs. The day was topped off with wine on the back patio and conversation with other guests. One couple was starting their 5th visit at the Gables. Larry, one of the owners, completed chef school and provided a unique breakfast consistent with his southern roots, complimented with blueberry and lavender scones. And youâll never miss it as Pam, his wife, sounds a Chinese gong to call everyone to the table!
âDanger Will Robinsonâ comes in many forms but most would least expect an attack from a claw-foot tub. Yes, they are unique and decorative but have high sides and sloping bottoms. Getting in may be difficult, but moving while standing in the tub: dangerous. What happens when the water pressure fluctuates and the temperature changes drastically? That instinctive reaction may cause your foot to slip and BAM, youâre in trouble. If you use the tubs, just err on the side of caution, use a tub mat if available and be ready for any changes in water pressure or temperature.
Prior to hitting the airport, we stopped in Sausalito, the seaside village overlooking San Francisco. Interesting designs where houses are perched atop one another so everyone can have a view of tony shops and plenty of tourists. Nice to visit, but, well, you know the rest.
Returning to Chicago proved to be another exciting event. I had picked Lavender from the Gables B&B as they had a very large garden with multiple varieties and scents. Even after multiple washing enough residues remained on my hands to set off sensors at the airport. I got to stage four of the security check before being released. Stage 5 would involve a strip search, so if you pick lavender, do a surgical scrub before you head to the airport. Enough said.
If you decide to take the journey, do not be surprised to see large numbers of hitchhikers and backpackers along all the routes. There is a hiking trail along the sea that many take and also through the Redwood forests. Most are young people, but there is a mixture of ages.
This journey complete, we marvel at the beauty we have seen and plan for more.â¨
Headline: California Part 2
