Friends of mine retired and moved to Mexico, but enjoy traveling. They decided (actually, were somewhat forced) to do a train/driving tour in Northern Europe. They had planned on just a trip to Germany and Burgundy, but the airfares were horrible! Wow, who would have thought, right! So what to do? After desperately searching the internet and all the travel sites, they found a package with 3 nights in Budapest and 4 nights in Prague that included airfare to/from Europe, hotel, and train between the two cities for $150 more than just the airfare into and out of Frankfort. With a few more nudges here and there, the package was turned into a full month of European travel! Let the fun begin.
First stop – Hungary and the capital city, Budapest. Most people think of Budapest as one city, which it is, kind of. But it is divided into two equally interesting sections – Buda and Pest. Itâs also one of the largest cities in the EU, so be prepared for crowds and congestion. Hungary is a VERY intriguing country. First of all, nobody knows where the people or their language originated. They are linguistically most closely affiliated with Finnish and Basque and their cultural DNA is also a little scrambled having something to do with the 150 years of Ottoman rule.
Hungarian Parliment. (Photos provided)
So, with this diverse history and mix of cultures, their alphabet and everything associated with it was unfathomable – at least to most English-speaking tourists. So, an app on your phone may help translate for you. A NY Times article that ranked rightwing, nationalistic parties in various European countries placed Hungary at the top of the list. You would think that with all this diversity they would be on the other end of the scale!
My friends really liked Budapest because they thought it had the most magnificent buildings they had ever seen, including the sites on the Danube River and castles. A number of river cruises either begin or end at Budapest, so if you decide to take a cruise, add on the days necessary to really see the city.
Now here is the thing that may surprise you – EVERYBODY smokes. So, like who cares, right? Well, most countries are looking to reduce smoking. Even Ireland doesn’t smoke anymore and they LOVED it. So, if you have issues with smokers, itâs best to grin and bear it or plan accordingly.
If traveling gets you tied up in knots, what better way to get them out than to soak in a thermal spa, aka, community pool. The city is fed by over 100 springs and there are 15 public baths and many private ones in the city. Several hotels also offer indoor hot, spring-fed pools as an indulgence for the guests. Temperatures vary greatly so check before you jump in!
As you are navigating the city, be aware that most places âchargeâ to use the bathroom facilities. Some restaurants will give you free access with a receipt (McDonaldâs, for example) should you chose to dine there.
Top tourist attractions in Budapest – the Parliament buildings, Chain Bridge straddling the river connecting the two parts of the city, the Buda Castle, and its associated art museum. The Buda Hill Funicular, i.e., cable car, will take you up to the castle and offers spectacular views during the ride. Want a slightly different view of castles? Try Vajdahunyad Castle. Itâs a rebuilt castle in a style from Transylvania but contains several different building techniques. Somewhat like a jigsaw puzzle castle!
Prague, the next major city on their trip, is a city they felt everyone traveling to Europe really MUST visit. Even though they thought the buildings in Budapest were gorgeous, they soon realized Pragueâs were even more so. The Old Town is exquisite and features places like Kafka’s house and Charles Bridge or just if youâre tired of touring, just enjoy a wonderful cafe and all the people watching opportunities. There is only one drawback to the city: the vertical climbs. On one side the river, the trek is all uphill, so plan ahead if you are visiting that part of the city. This turned out to be an advantage for them because they walked up the hill to a unique restaurant without reservations. As it turned out, they were the only people there, so they got the best pick of choice seating. And, after a great and delicious meal, the trip back is all downhill; just rewards for making the trip up. They also had one of the best meals of their lives in Prague. It was on a fabulous terrace overlooking Prague and yes, it was up another cliff and lasted three hours. They protested that they were not “fancy” people, not gourmets or even gourmands. But there was something special about sitting in a really nice place with a great view and eating a leisurely paced, beautifully prepared meal that makes a day or a trip memorable.
A gondola ride on the Vltava River in Prague with the imposing Charles Bridge in the background topped off their visit. The bridgeâs construction started in 1357 under the auspices of King Charles IV. This was the only connection between the Prague Castle and the old town for more than 450 years. Not sure whatâs the oldest bridge in the US, but sure it doesnât even come close. To further expand their adventure, they signed up for a tour of a little town called Cesky Krumlov about two hours outside Prague. More castles, more hills, but really like something out of a fairytale. Their tour guide was named Manuel; odd for a Czech, but upon inquiry, he informed them his mother was Cuban. Unfortunately, Manuel had a disturbing speech impediment which seems like the kind of thing that might steer you away from a career as a tour guide, but apparently not. It was extremely difficult to understand any of the details regarding Cresky Krumlov because of this issue – note: possibly interview guides before taking a tour.
Another interesting tour outside Prague in Kutna Horato, a UNESCO world heritage site. In the Middle Ages, their silver mines brought fame and fortune to the area making this town the richest and most powerful in the region. You should also visit the “bone church” (Sedlec Ossuary). Why âbone churchâ? The small chapel is estimated to display the skeletons of over 40,000 people. The bones are arranged artistically to form the chapelâs dĂ©cor. Even so, the town makes a great day trip!
This is the first part of their adventure in Europe. Their adventures continue in the next installment.
P.S. The Pennypack Creek Bridge, aka; the Pennypack Bridge, aka; the Holmesburg Bridge, aka the King’s Highway Bridge, was erected in 1697 in the Holmesburg section of Northeast Philadelphia, and is the oldest surviving roadway bridge in the United States. So at 320 years, itâs still a baby compared to the Charles Bridge.
