At a certain point early this summer, I became very disenchanted with ornamental grasses. I was seeing so many ornamental grasses that were just not growing well. In many yards, the ornamental grasses were either small or only portions of the plants were showing any signs of life. On the other side of the spectrum, some ornamental grasses were taking over planting beds. It seemed like a no-win situation.
After thinking about the various situations involving ornamental grasses, I came to realize that these grasses are a bit complex. Their growth varies based on the soil temperature, their root structure, and how they are maintained. Ornamental grasses do better when maintained regularly. Although some grasses are the ‘plant and forget’ kind, most will grow taller and fuller when given a bit of care.
All ornamental grasses can be divided into two categories: warm season and cool season. These terms refer to when the grasses start greening up in the spring. Cool season grasses will start growing early in the spring when the temperature is still cool. With warm season grasses, you will not see much green growth until the soil temperature is warm and the air temperature has risen. You may not see any growth on these grasses until late May.
In addition to when the grasses start growing, there are other differences between cool and warm season grasses. Cool season grasses may remain green during the winter. They also do better during cooler temperatures and may go dormant during a drought. Cool season grasses benefit from being divided about every 3 years. If they are not divided, they tend to die out in the center of the plant. Karl Foerster grass (Calamgrostis ‘Karl Foerster), Elijah Blue Fescue (Festuca ‘Elijah Blue’ and Variegated Japanese Forest Grass (Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’) are examples of cool season grasses.
Warm season grasses do not begin to show any signs of growth until late spring or early summer. Typically, they do not need to be divided as often as cool season grasses. Examples of warm season grasses include Dwarf Fountain Grass (Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Hameln’), Variegated Silver Grass (Miscanthus sinensis ‘Variegatus’) Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) and Big Bluestem (Andropogon gerardii).
Ornamental grasses can also be classified by their growth habit. The terms used to describe this would be clump forming or spreading. Clump forming grasses tend to grow in neater, rounder areas. The diameter of the grasses will increase overtime. Northern Sea Oats (Chasmanthium latifolium) and Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) are examples of Clump forming grasses.
Spreading grasses send out rhizomes and can be very aggressive in their growth. They would work well if you are trying to fill in an area, but would probably not work when mixed with flowers or shrubs. Ribbon grass (Phalaris arundinacea) is an example of a grass that can be very aggressive.
Ornamental grasses can be planted in the spring, summer, or fall. Most prefer well-drained soil and full sun to part shade. The maintenance of grasses is pretty straightforward once you understand their type and growth habit. They usually need to be cut back in early spring and divide every 3-5 years.
I am pleased to let you know about a wonderful event coming up in December. Be sure to mark it on your calendar now. The Sunflower Garden Club will be hosting its 7th Annual Holiday House Walk for Charity on Thursday, December 8 from 2-6 p.m. A dessert reception will be held at Fountain View Center after the home viewings for all ticket purchasers.
Each of the homeowners will showcase their decorated homes and choose a charity close to their heart with 100% net proceeds going directly to the charities.
Tickets will be available for $10 per person at Fountain View Center the day of the House Walk or you can call Marsha at 224-858-4843 to purchase tickets in advance.
Kathleen Carr is the owner of The Growing Scene, Inc., a garden center and landscaping company. She can be reached by calling 815-923-7322 or emailing her at Kathleen@thegrowingscene.com.. Have a gardening question? Please contact her. She may address it in an upcoming column.
