Chris, my husband and I recently purchased seven new appliances. While the process was a bit overwhelming, we honestly, just followed the advice of our sales person and made practical conservative choices. On the highly anticipated day of delivery, not only did our appliances arrive but so did reams of paper in the form of operating manuals. It took me hours to sort through the manuals, fill out the registration cards and luckily, in some cases, apply for energy rebates. My take away from this whole process was that plants should be sold with operating manuals. Specifically, trees. If all goes well, the trees in our yard will be alive and thriving decades after our appliances are relegated to the junk yard. More information should be given to the owner of the trees regarding their care than the owner of a microwave. In an attempt to right this wrong, this column summarizes a few key points for tree owners.
The first step is determining the type or types of trees in your yard. Plants generally have two names. One is the botanical name and the other is the common name. It is important to try to determine the botanical name of your tree(s). Tree identification can be done with the assistance of someone in the horticulture industry. By bringing a 6-8” section of the leaves and branches to a local garden center or a volunteer master gardener they may be able to help you determine the botanical and common names of the tree. A Google Images search with the camera on your phone may also point you in the right direction as to the name of your tree. Growth patterns and environmental requirements vary widely between tree species. By determining the name of the tree you will have dramatically narrowed down the scope of determining what is best for your particular tree.
Pruning is a task that is often necessary as a tree matures. Unfortunately, it is frequently done incorrectly. The primary reasons for pruning revolve around health, safety and aesthetics. Pruning for the health of the tree includes removing diseased wood, thinning the tree to increase airflow and removing branches that are rubbing up against each other. Pruning for safety includes removing branches that have the potential to damage a structure or cause injury. Branches may also need to be removed if they interfere with the lines of site from a driveway or a street. Pruning for aesthetics should enhance the natural form or character of the tree. Trees naturally grow to a set mature height and width, by considering this information prior to planting, the need for pruning can be greatly reduced. Proper pruning cuts are made through a thorough evaluation of the tree, determining the reason for the pruning and by pruning within the branch axel region. The branch axel region is the area that is formed where a branch joins another branch or the trunk of the tree. Pruning has the potential to negatively affect a tree. The process of uniformly shaping or pruning a tree to a set point regardless of its mature height and width is called ‘topping.’ Topping a tree often results in a fast spurt of weak wooded growth. A direct consequence of this is that the tree needs to be pruned more frequently. This can be very costly and is simply not good for the tree. If pruning is necessary evergreen trees can be pruned anytime of the year. The best time to prune spring flowering trees is early summer. Shade trees are best pruned when they are dormant. It is easier to evaluate the branching structure after the leaves have fallen.
Chemical fertilizers can help provide trees with what nature is lacking. A slow-release nitrogen fertilizer can be applied in the spring or early summer. Fertilizing in the late summer or fall should be avoided. Granular fertilizers should be spread over the entire root system which may extend past the tips of the branches. As with all plant care chemicals, be sure to read and follow the directions carefully.
Staking a tree by mechanically supporting the truck is generally not necessary. The industry best practice is to not stake the tree unless it starts to shift or lean. The reasoning is that without staking, the tree will develop roots that are strong enough to support itself throughout its life cycle. If a tree does start to shift though staking may be the best way to assist the tree in growing correctly.
Developing and maintaining a tree ring around the base of the tree will help protect it from injury by mechanical means such as a lawn mower or weed whip. Mulch, when applied correctly in this tree ring helps to retain moisture and reduce weeds around the base of a tree. Mulch is usually about 2” thick and is applied in an even layer.
Inspecting for signs of insects and diseases periodically will help a tree to maintain good health. Should any signs of concern come up such as holes in the bark, growths on the leaves or discolored leaves a landscape professional may be able to offer some guidance. The Chicago Botanic Garden and the Morton Arboretum both offer Plant Care Clinics. Questions and pictures can be submitted electronically. The information for both clinics is available through their websites.
Deep thorough and infrequent watering assists the tree in developing a strong root system. Deep watering allows water to penetrate the soil 6-9”. Frequent watering promotes a shallow root system that can be susceptible to stresses such as drought and heat.
With any luck, thanks to one of our many operating manuals, the apple pie in the currently in the oven will be perfectly baked.
Kathleen Carr is the owner of The Growing Scene, Inc.,a landscaping company. She can be reached by calling 815-923-7322 or emailing her at Kathleen@thegrowingscene.com. Have a gardening question? Please contact her. She may address it in an upcoming column.
