A couple of Woodchucks have reported a strange humming noise that turned out to be a failed door bell mechanism. To track down this problem, first locate your door bell mechanism. Have someone ring your door bell, and look and listen for a box mounted high in the wall, usually in the hall. The door bell should make a ābing-bongā sound. If it makes the ābingā sound but it is not followed by the ābongā sound, it will then make a humming sound.
The problem is probably caused by a bad door bell button. You donāt want to leave the door bell in this humming mode. The solenoid in the bell will heat up and could burn out. The transformer that powers the mechanism can also burn out, as it is not designed for continuous duty. The fix for this problem is to replace the door bell button. If you discover you have this problem, you should remove the door bell button by removing the two mounting screws and remove the two wires from the back of it. These are low voltage and are not at all dangerous, but donāt let them touch together. The button simply connects these two wires together to make the bell ring. Until you get a replacement button, put tape over the copper ends of these wires so they do not touch each other.
One Woodchuck who delivers the Lifestyle magazine has reported a large number of door bell buttons with broken plastic buttons and burned-out lights. These buttons are available at any hardware store or home center and are very easy to install.
Another fix for a leaky sillcock
K. K. adds this fix to a recent article on leaky sillcocks. Fix a leaky sillcock was very good for fixing most leaking faucets. However, my faucet was leaking from the anti-siphon/vacuum breaker float assembly part under the cap on the top of the faucet. If the anti-siphon assembly is faulty, it will only leak when the faucet is on. The float has a rubber washer which was partially torn, causing it to leak. I have a Woodford model 17 faucet, which is indicated on the cap. I purchased the replacement kit containing three parts (the vacuum breaker float, the housing for the float, and the cap) from a plumbing supply company in Elgin for $1.67. I could not find this kit at any of the local hardware stores or home centers. To replace the float and float housing under the cap, you need to pry the cap off by inserting a screwdriver under the edge of the cap and keep at it until the cap pops off. Then you just remove the threaded plastic housing for the float and replace with the new parts. The kit includes a new replacement cap, so you do not need to be careful to not break or deform the old cap when prying it off ā- just be careful to not break anything else when applying pressure to pop off the cap. I would rate this fix as fairly easy, saving the cost of a plumber to come out.
If you have suggestions for future tips or have questions about maintenance around your home, submit them to ask.the.woodchucks@gmail.com.
